PetuniaIII a bien passé l'hiver
Grand Carenage à Pacques , pas trop de d égats visibles
Des petites réparations sont prévues cet été mais rien de fondamental , pour de petites navigations
A tres bientot
La fête du retour de Petunia III s’est tenue le 14 et 15 Aout à Sainte Marine.
Environ 40 personnes sont venues et 7 bateaux du rallye RIDS étaient représentés : il ne manquait aucuns des bateaux bretons (Nantes est en Bretagne).
Les festivités on débutées par un apéro sur le port, ou pour l’occasion Pétunia avait été amarré au ponton visiteur (il est d’habitude au corps mort).
Le vent du Nord était frisquet mais le planteur à rapidement réchauffé l’ambiance.
Nous avons eu la visite cordiale des autorités du port et de la police municipale.
Les invités ont ensuite effectué la petite promenade qui mène du port à la petite maison des Pleven par l’allée des chênes.
La les attendaient un plateau de fruits de mer géant ainsi que diverses nourritures solides et liquides. Les convives se sont régalés.
Le jambon, qui avait fait le voyage depuis La Corogne sur Petunia a subit une bonne cure d’amaigrissement.
La fête s’est continue tard dans la nuit
Après une bonne nuit de repos, grand beau le lendemain pour un piquenique à la plage, certains se sont même baignés (eau à 17° quand même).
Le soir diner à Kerobistin avec les chants de marins , sardines et moules frites…
Puis le feu d’artifice promis
Voilà c’est fini nous reprendrons la plume au prochain voyage de Petunia.
Two Moody’s : a two month trip up and down the Amazon
Itinerario: Itineray
The trip initiated from Belem (Para state) , going up the Para river, going west around Marajo island. This island, realm of swimming buffalos, is as big as Switzerland.
The 21 boats are progressing at 6 knots behind the Sao Joao, the boat of the rally organisation.
The boats then entered the “furros” , a maze of channels between the main rivers. These furros are sometimes very narrow and the boats have to motor in a single line.
The people living near the river and in the “furros “are called “caboclos”, descendents of early European settlers, with a very variable portion of Indian blood. They are very friendly.
Palm trees are predominant in the North East but will be replaced by the rain forest as we go deeper in the Amazon basin.
We soon reach mighty Amazon River with a 2.5 knots current against us.
The crews have to be very careful to the drifting vegetal. Thy range from some debris and logs, to a 20m tree, and often floating islands of giant lilies have to be cleared. Current is lower close to the shore, but more debris there? and the trade-off is delicate.
At night, boats are mooring along the shore in depth around d 5m but sometimes up to 20m.
The anchorage can be tricky when a thunderstorm blows over the 21 boats, but no major accident occurred.
Stops in Boa Vista, Breves, Liverpool (no beatles there), Porto do Moz, Almerim, Monte Alegre, All these stops have good diesel, and shops for basic supplies. GSM networks are rare as well as cybercafes, and when we are lucky to find one, Internet is very slow.
Up the Amazon for a few days we leave “aguas brancas”(White waters, in fact yellow..) and turning left after the city of Santarem, finally enter the rio Tapajos, with its dark waters , acid enough to keep mosquitoes away.
Alter do Chao was the last call going upstream. We had a week rest in the “Amazon Caraibes”, with sandy beaches and transparent waters. This week was an opportunity to organize a 3 days trip in the rain forest, to meet traditional Indians and the giant trees, the monkeys, the parrots but also snakes and mygales, the giant spiders.
Then we turned back east, down to Afua close to the Amazon mouth, which we reached in about a week.
From Belem to Afua, the trip took 6 weeks, for approximately 900 miles, and 150 hours motoring .Afua is the end of the rallye ,and the boats can decide individually on the their program.
French Guyana has been a stopover for many of the boats heading to the Caribean.
Kourou river wad preferred to the Cayenne harbour Degrad de Cannes. Nevertheless, apart from the visit to the Space Center , the stay in Guyana was not the most interesting, with poor anchorage conditions , and at this time of the year frequent heavy rains.
Most of the boats sailed to Trinidad, were they will spend the hurricane season and perform eventual repairs in the excellent shipyards of this island.
Three chose to winter in Le Marin in Martinique. Most had time for a short cruise in the southern part of the Caribbean : Tobago, Grenada, Union Tobago keys, Bequai, St Lucia, Martinique, Guadeloupe, St Barth..
Five boats sailed back to Europe, with a May-June passage between Caribbean and Azores, and a last meeting was held in famous « Café Sport » in Horta . This passage has been carried out in 17 days in average.
Three were heading to the France Atlantic coast and two crossed to Gibraltar and the south coast of France
Bomberos: Lifeguards
Key factors for the success of this trip are support, safety and security.
This is organized around the “Sao Joao”, a 25m Amazonian boat. On this boat, apart of the 3 persons from rally organization, we have 6 “bomberos”, 4 policemen, an experienced Amazon pilot, 4 crews for handling of the boat, and a cook.
The state of Para is strongly backing the project
The role of the bomberos is to deal with all problems occurring on water with the boats.
They can dive to clear propellers from weeds or branches. They can also free an anchored boat from “morere” ( floating islands of local lilies ): in that case they put on their wet suit ( not because of the cold water but because of the snakes) .
They can take proper action in case of incursion of undesirable animals, likes shakes (we did not see any) and monkeys (one boat received a visit when anchored in Alter do Chao). In narrow passages between sand banks, the bomberos, with their “lancha” (speedboat) will moor a buoy to mark clear waters.
The role of policemen is to ensure security. In this troubled area (remember Peter Blake) , showing guns is enough for a complete security. In the towns were we stopped, local authorities were very present for logistics. At night the Sao Joao will come alongside the “trapiche” (pier) and be the head-quarter for shore activities, including for instance keeping dingies in a safe environment.
Gente: People
During the Amazon trip the boats have been stopping each night, allowing most of the time ,the crews to go ashore and meet local people. Each time they encountered a warm welcome, the rally often being the only tourists visit of the year for the smallest communities. Our visit was the opportunity for dance demonstrations and tasting of local food. Communication was not easy since Portuguese language is only spoken there, but with a little effort on both side a minimum of conversation was possible.
Som : Sound
Music is everywhere in Brazil, of course Samba and Bossa Nova, but each region has is own sound tradition : In Nordeste we have furro, in Amazonas we have Carimbo and Calypso.
All have one thing in common: the noise level!!! Boats , cars, cafés, compete to deliver the maximum of decibels. The peak is reached during carnaval period where trucks loaded with 10 000 watts sound machines drive the streets of the Brazilian cities followed by a dancing crowd.
Comida: Food
Amazon offers an immense choice:
Agua: Water is everywhere:
· Pouring down from the sky. Fortunately the squalls are violent but short. Quantity of water is impressive, you can really check if your boat is waterproof. You can also fill up easily your water tanks. With proper “watercatch” gear you can get up to 100 liter per squall.
Floresta: Forest
In most of the area the populated land is very narrow between the river and the forest.
Forest has traditionally been much exploited but recent regulations have slowed down cutting and many sawmills have been closing down. Main danger for the forest now is the soybean expansion especially in the region of Santarem, but exports substantially contribute to the Brazilian trade balance.
Reserves have been set up in order to protect the primary forest and in several opportunities we have been able to enter the maze of trees, lianas and mosses accompanied by local guides.
Camarada: Fellow boats
21 boats took part on this expedition: Two British, Two Belgian, Two Swiss and 15 French.
All of them were series boats age ranging from brand new to 25 years old. 4 Catamaran and 17 monohull.
The list below gives an idea of the type of boats in the rally :
Amel Super-Maramu, Halberg Rassy 45, Northwind 50, Sun Odyssee 452, Moody 49 , aluminium racer Azzuro 42, Fabulo 37 single handed racer (with a family of 6 aboard), Ovni 365,Ovni 395, Ovni 445 , Ovni 455, Daphnie 40 lifting keel strongall design, Bavaria 40,Oceanis 393, Moody 376, , Sun Odyssee 40, Prout Event 39 cat, Lavezzi 40 Catamaran, Dean 441 South African built cat, African Fastcat 445, Galileo 41 aluminium catamaran,
Crews were mostly couples; four boats had children aboard, one dog on a 44’ cat.
Of course habitability of the cats has been much appreciated during this voyage, but one of cats weaknesses has been very obvious in this river environment.
Mooring conditions are though in the Amazon( lot of current, nasty squalls, mooring depths over 15m) and the cats had a hard time due to their “dunnage”? and found themselves in uncomfortable positions in the mangrove.
Monohulls with shallow draft were more at ease in these conditions (Ovnis of course and also the M376 with her 1,40 keel)
Two Moody’s: across the Atlantic to the Amazon
Suzie Too and Petunia III met in Quinta do Lorde ( Madeira) early October 2009.
They were getting ready for the “Rallye de Iles du Soleil” .
Susie Too is a 2004 M49(MOA Solent branch, crewed by David and Susie , and Petunia III is a 1990 M376 owned by Pierre (MOA Atlantic branch) .
Suzie Too had initiated her voyage in July from Plymouth and visited Galicia and Portugal on her way to Madeira, while Petunia III started from Sainte Marine (the harbour on the Odet river opposite Benodet), with an enjoyable cruise with stopovers in Bayona and Lisbon.
Madeira is a delightful island, with its rich gardens and markets. You can hike along the “levadas” , these canals carved through the mountains to bring precious water from the wet North coast to the dry South coast, or you can just sit and enjoy good food and wine.
On Oct 17 the two Moodys left Quinta do Lorde together with the 36 boats fleet
First port of call has been Tenerife 400 miles south. This island has been totally dedicated to mass tourism on the coast, with massive constructions far from bying typical nor elegant.
Fortunately the inside of the island is still wild with striking Teide (3756m). Trekking in the National park surrounding the volcano is an exhausting but marvellous experience.
The rally then left to Dakhla in Western Sahara . This very active fishing harbour lies “where the Sahara meets the Ocean”. Formerly Villa Cisneros in the Spanish times was a stop on the “Aeropostale” routes made famous by Mermoz and Saint Exupery books.
A desert trip has been arranged with camels and a night under the Bedouin tent was really worth it.
Dakarin Senegal was the next destination (600 miles) and the boats anchored below beautiful Teranga hotel which provided all facilities (pool, restaurant, showers..) .
Trip to the Pink Lake and game reserves showed the various aspects of Senegal rich countryside, and a visit to Goree island, with its slavery memorial has been of much emotion for many.
A 60 miles trip took the boats to the Sine Saloum river mouth. Unforgettable sunset was waiting for us, with the wood canoes coming back and unloading tons of fish.
A three days of fast close reach took us to Mindelo (450 miles) , Sao Vicente island in Cabo Verde. The brand new marina has full amenities and the stay was very pleasant.
A ferry trip to nearby Sao Antao Island was really worth it. This island is high and exposed to the wet Atlantic winds, but due to steep slopes and profound valleys (riberas), farming conditions are difficult. Nevertheless, thanks to hard work of the San Antao farmers cane, coffee and fruit, grows and are exported to the other islands. The sceneries are outstanding.
After two week rest, the boats left for the Atlantic crossing, heading to Salvador in Brazil.
The crossing took around 15 days .The two highlights have been the” doldrums” and the equator crossing party.
Our experience of the doldrums is shaky seas with no wind; cloudy skies send thunder and lighting. Suddenly a squall sends 30 knots of wind and hectolitres of rain. Best thing is to motor through this zone as fast as you can.
We won’t comment on the equator crossing party…
Salvador de Bahia was the first Brasilian port of call. This former Brazilian capital has it all: architecture, art, music, people…
The city is restless with music and dance from early in the morning to late hours . Caipirinha helps to keep the pace.
Within a 40 miles radius The Bay of all Saints, proposes jewels like Itaparica Island, Moro de Sao Paolo harbour, Paraguaçu river, and a month is not enough to discover all theses places.
End of January 2010 , the boats started North with several stops , first Jao Pessoa, then Fernando de Noronha Island. This Island is a Brazilian natural reserve with pristine coral reefs and beautiful beaches. Sharks (kind ones) , dolphin and turtles swim freely and can be observed snorkelling. The anchorage if far from being comfortable: a surfing competition was held on the same side of the island from our mooring, and we soon sailed to our next stop, Fortaleza.
Fortaleza is a large modern city known for its beaches and its nightlife .Then we sailed to Luis Coreira, where we attended the Carnaval, Soure on the island of Marajo ,and finally Belem.
Almost 1800 miles since Salvador: Brazil is definitely a large country.
Belem is the door to the Amazon, were the rally is going to travel during almost two month .
This story will be told in the next episode
Sur la carte 1200 Milles, mais ce n'est pas forcement l'étape la plus facile
Patrice et Cody sont repartis de Horta le 20/06 et les prochains équipiers arrivent le 13/07 à Ponta Delagada (Sao Miguel).
Bon , après les signatures traditionnelles sur la jetée de Horta, je repars en solo pour visiter les Açores.
Tout d'abord Sao Jorge, une ile calme et agricole, peu de touristes et peu de moyens de transports mais le stop marche bien et le temps et beau, une très belle ile ma foi.
Puis Terceira: Angra do Heroismo est la première capitale des Açores, une belle ville historique, malheureusement sous la pluie.
Petunia repars ensuite pour Ponta Delgada, la capitale moderne des Açores, la ville est sans grand intérêt.
Mais l'ile est fort belle, enfin je le devine, car la brume y est tenace.
L'élevage est la principale richesse de l'ile avec une industrie laitière florissante
Je laisserai Petunia 15 jours à Ponta Delgada pour faire un saut à Paris et préparer la rentrée.
De retour le 15 Juillet je retrouve Olivier et Camille, les équipiers qui vont nous accompagner jusqu'à Sainte Marine .
La question s'arrêter à la Corogne ou pas ?
Après un jour de moteur et un jour de portant, la question ne se pose plus, le vent passe Nord-Nord Est ce qui nous mène au près sur la capitale de la Galice .
Le vent est frais, quelques pluies, mais l'équipage est vaillant et nous enchainons de bonnes moyennes .
Au large du Cap Finistère nous croisons le rail des cargos, très impressionnant, et l'AIS montre encore son grand intérêt.
Arrivée à la Corogne avec un vent NE forcissant, mais encore maniable
Nous sommes tout de suite pris dans l'ambiance des fêtes médiévales et passons une excellente soirée d'arrivée
Cette ville n'est pas la plus belle du monde, mais elle est fort agréable avec son animation, sa jeunesse, sa gastronomie, sa mode ( QG de Zara), ses artistes, et ses plages au centre le la ville.
Le NE souffle en permanence entre 25 et 30 N , et les prévisions météo ne prévoient pas de baisse dans les jours à venir. Bon il va falloir y aller. Une analyse poussée montre que les vents forts ne s'étendent que sur 60 M vers le Nord et se calment ensuite, de plus le thermique vient contrebalancer le vent de NE le matin.
Nous partons donc à 6H le Mardi 27/07, peu de vent mais vers 11H au large du Cap Prior on se prends le 30N au près.
C'est un peu rock n roll l'après midi et une partie de la nuit, mais le vent se calme comme prévu au matin suivant.
Un peu de moteur pour passer l'axe de l'anticyclone et nous touchons un NW 15 N qui nous accompagnera jusqu'à l'arrivée.
Arrivée dans un calme absolu le 30/07 à 3H du matin.
La boucle est bouclée en un an et deux jours
Nous déchargeons partiellement le bric à brac accumulé pendant un an et Petunia regagne son mouillage, pour prendre un repos bien gagné
