Two Moody’s: across the Atlantic to the Amazon (in english)

Two  Moody’s: across the Atlantic to the Amazon

 

Suzie Too and Petunia III met in Quinta do Lorde ( Madeira) early October 2009.

They were getting ready for the “Rallye de Iles du Soleil” .

Susie Too is a 2004 M49(MOA Solent branch,  crewed by David and Susie , and Petunia III is a 1990 M376 owned by Pierre (MOA Atlantic branch) .

Suzie Too had initiated her voyage in July  from Plymouth and visited Galicia and Portugal on her way to Madeira, while Petunia III started from Sainte Marine (the harbour on the Odet river  opposite Benodet), with an enjoyable cruise with stopovers  in Bayona and Lisbon.

Madeira is a delightful island, with its rich gardens and markets. You can hike along the “levadas” , these canals carved through the mountains to bring precious water from the wet North coast to the dry South coast, or you can just sit and enjoy good food and wine.

 

On Oct 17 the two Moodys left Quinta do Lorde together with the 36 boats fleet

First port of call has been Tenerife 400 miles south. This island has been totally dedicated to mass tourism on the coast, with massive constructions far from bying typical nor elegant.

Fortunately the inside of the island is still wild with striking Teide (3756m). Trekking  in the National park surrounding the   volcano is an exhausting but marvellous experience.

The rally then left to Dakhla in Western Sahara . This very active fishing harbour lies “where the Sahara meets the Ocean”. Formerly Villa Cisneros in the Spanish times was a stop on the “Aeropostale” routes made famous by Mermoz and Saint Exupery books.

A desert trip has been arranged with camels and a night under the Bedouin tent was really worth it.

 

Dakarin Senegal was the next destination (600 miles) and the boats anchored below beautiful Teranga hotel which provided all facilities (pool, restaurant, showers..) .

Trip to the Pink Lake and game reserves showed the various aspects of Senegal rich countryside, and a visit to Goree island, with its slavery memorial has been of much emotion for many.

A 60 miles trip took the boats to the Sine Saloum river mouth. Unforgettable sunset was waiting for us, with the wood canoes coming back and unloading tons of fish.

A three days of fast close reach took us to Mindelo (450 miles) , Sao Vicente island in Cabo Verde. The brand new marina has full amenities and the stay was very pleasant.

A ferry trip to nearby Sao Antao Island was really worth it. This island is high and exposed to the wet Atlantic winds, but due to steep slopes and profound valleys (riberas), farming conditions are difficult. Nevertheless, thanks to hard work of the San Antao farmers cane, coffee and fruit, grows and are exported to the other islands. The sceneries are outstanding.

 

After two week rest, the boats left for the Atlantic crossing, heading to Salvador in Brazil.

The crossing took around 15 days .The two highlights have been the” doldrums” and the equator crossing party.

Our experience of the doldrums is shaky seas with no wind; cloudy skies send thunder and lighting. Suddenly a squall sends 30 knots of wind and hectolitres of rain. Best thing is to motor through this zone as fast as you can.

We won’t comment on the equator crossing party…

 

Salvador de Bahia was the first Brasilian port of call. This former Brazilian capital has it all: architecture, art, music, people…

The city is restless with music and dance from early in the morning to late hours . Caipirinha helps to keep the pace.

Within a 40 miles radius The Bay of all Saints, proposes jewels like Itaparica Island, Moro de Sao Paolo harbour, Paraguaçu river, and a month is not enough to discover all theses places.

 

End of January 2010 , the boats started North with several stops , first Jao Pessoa, then Fernando de Noronha Island.  This Island is a Brazilian natural reserve with pristine coral reefs and beautiful beaches. Sharks (kind ones) , dolphin and turtles swim freely and can be observed snorkelling. The anchorage if far from being comfortable: a surfing competition was held on the same side of the island from our mooring, and we soon sailed to our next stop, Fortaleza.

 

Fortaleza is a large  modern city known for its beaches and its nightlife .Then we sailed to Luis Coreira, where we attended the Carnaval,  Soure on the island of Marajo ,and finally Belem.

Almost 1800 miles since Salvador: Brazil is definitely a large country.

Belem is the door to the Amazon, were the rally is going to travel during almost two month .

 

This story will be told in the next episode

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